2009 triumph bonneville service manual

Despite this spreading of the range's appeal, all these bikes were still built on the original modular concept. There was, however, an exception to this rule of uniformity in the shape of a brand new bike, the Tiger Here was a Triumph with a inch front tyre, wire wheels and a lower power output than the other s.

Judging their market as cleverly as ever, the factory held back another new model for the International Bike Show at the Birmingham NEC. This was the Daytona , an out and out speed machine with a hidden political agenda. Its high-compression, 14 7 PS engine gave it brutal straight-line performance in much the same way as the big Kawasakis of the mid-'80s, and like them it wasn't too clever in the corners because of its weight and length.

The bike was built as much to show that Triumph could do it as to sell in big numbers, it also had the secondary function of thumbing the corporate nose at the UK importers' gentlemen's agreement not to bring in bikes of over PS.

Next year's NEC show saw two more new Triumphs, both reworkings of what was now regarded as a modern classic, the triple. The Speed Triple was a clever reincarnation of the British cafe racer style, complete with clip-on handlebars and rear-set footrests. The other newcomer was a more radical project, the Daytona Super Ill.

Externally the motor looked like the usual cc three with PS as opposed to the standard Daytona's 98 PS. Triumph's next big step was into the US market, where the old company was so strong in the post-war years when the only competition was Harley-Davidson and where there is considerable affection for the marque.

The name Triumph chose to spearhead this new challenge was Thunderbird, a trademark sourced in Native American mythology. This time the famous name adorned yet another version of the triple but this time heavily restyled and in a retro package. Dummy cooling fins give it the look of an air-cooled motor, the logo was cast into the clutch cover, and there were soft edges and large expanses of polished alloy.

Inside those restyled cases, the motor was retuned even more than the Tiger's for a very user-friendly dose of low-down punch and mid-range power. The cycle parts were given an equally radical redesign, although the retro style stopped short of giving the Thunderbird twin rear shock absorbers. But everything else, the shape of the tank, the chrome headlight and countless other details, harks back to the original Thunderbird and nothing does so as shamelessly as the 'mouth-organ' tank badge, a classic icon if ever there was one.

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Toggle Nav. Aircraft Aeroplanes Buses Golf Carts. My Cart 0 Cart. Skip to the end of the images gallery. Speed Master manuals. Speed Triple manuals. Speed Triple ABS 20 manuals.

Speed Triple R 33 manuals. Speed Triple S 24 manuals. Speedmaster manuals. Sprint GT 6 manuals. Sprint RS 88 manuals. Street Triple 45 manuals. Street Triple R 30 manuals. TR 30 manuals. Thruxton manuals. Thunderbird manuals. Drive gear shaft bolt early type 4. On models from engine number , unscrew the bolt from the end of the drive gear shaft. Models from engine number are fitted with a single thrust washer on the left hand side of the idler gear.

Note the position of the thrust washer s , support the drive gear and withdraw its shaft. Recover the thrust washer s from the drive gear as it is released from the shaft. Failure to do so will result in serious engine damage. Drive gear thrust washer early type 6. Free the camshaft drive gear from the chain. Inspection 1. Inspect the drive gear needle roller bearings, drive gear teeth and the shaft contact surfaces for signs of wear or damage. If necessary renew both the gear and the shaft.

Ensure the crankshaft is still positioned at TDC alternator rotor mark facing forwards and aligned with crankcase half joint. Lubricate the needle roller bearings with clean engine oil then manoeuvre the drive gear into position. Ensure the cam chain is correctly engaged with the crankshaft sprocket then engage the drive gear with the chain so that its TOP mark is uppermost. Drive gear TOP mark 4. Align the drive gear with its mountings and check the position of its timing marks.

The marks must be parallel with the cylinder head upper surface with the line facing forwards and the dot facing backwards. Once the drive gear is correctly engaged with the chain, position the thrust washer s as noted earlier and slide the drive gear shaft into position.

Drive gear shaft 6 Push on the rear of the tensloner blade to remove all slack from the cam chain and check the drive gear timing marks are correctly positioned.

On models with engine numbers up to , align the drive gear shaft hole with the bolt hole. Insert the bolt and tighten to 10 Nm. On models with engine numbers from onwards, insert the bolt into the end of the shaft and tighten to 28 Nm. Refit the cam chain tensioner and the camshafts. Remove the camshafts, cam chain tensioner and the camshaft drive gear.

Lift out the tappet buckets complete with shims. Interchanging ofthe buckets and shims will upset the valve clearances. Tappet bucket with fitted shim 3. Remove the spark plugs. Peel back the rubber cover then remove the screw and disconnect the wiring connector from the low oil pressure warning light switch. Unscrew the low oil pressure warning light switch and disconnect the oil feed pipe from the rear of the cylinder head.

Recover the sealing washers and discard them. Low oil pressure warning light switch 2. Sealing washers 6 Unscrew the banjo bolts securing the oil cooler feed pipes to the cylinder head. Remove the nut and washer and lift out the cam chain tensioner blade from the rear of the cylinder head.

Tensioner blade nut 3. Remove the two bolts and lift out the cam chain guide blade from the front of the cylinder head. Guide blade bolts 2. Guide blade 9. Unscrew the nuts securing the mounting bracket s to the rear of the cylinder head and the frame. Withdraw the bolt s and remove the bracket s. Unscrew the nut and withdraw the engine front upper engine mounting bolt from the cylinder head.

Evenly and progressively slacken the cylinder head nuts in the order shown below until all are loose. Cylinder head nut slackening sequence Remove the cylinder head nuts from their studs.

Cylinder head nut Carefully break the seal of the head gasket. If the barrel-to-crankcase gasket seal is broken, the barrels will have to be removed and the base gasket renewed to prevent oil leakage. Remove the cylinder head taking care not to lose the locating dowels. Removing the cylinder head Remove the cylinder head gasket and discard it. Cylinder head gasket Wipe clean the area around the base of the breather tube then remove the tube from the crankcase.

Discard the O-rings from the tube. For detalls, refer to the barrels and pistons section. Failure to renew the base gasket could cause an oil leak which could lead to engine damage. Using a straight edge, check the cylinder head gasket face for warp which could lead to gasket failure.

Replace the cylinder head if warpage exceeds the specified limit. Feeler gauge 2. Straight edge Cylinder head gasket face warpage Standard Less than 0. Check each tappet bucket outer surface for signs of wear.

Renew any damaged bucket. If the tappet bucket bore is damaged, the cylinder head must be renewed. Check the cam chain tensloner and guide blades. Renew if worn or damaged. Inspect the cylinder head studs and nuts closely for signs of damage. Renew the studs and nuts if their threads show any sign of damage or tapering due to overtightening. Installation 1.

Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and barrels taking care not to damage the mating surfaces. Fit a new a-ring to the groove at each end of the breather tube. Lubricate the a-rings with clean engine oil then refit the breather tube to the crankcase.

Fit a new cylinder head gasket ensuring that the locating dowels are correctly in place. The gasket must be fitted with its TOP marking facing upwards at the rear. This is due to the manufacturing process and is perfectly normal.

Locating dowels 2. TOP marking location 4. Carefully lower on the cylinder head, passing the cam chain up through the head. Align the breather tube with the head and locate the head on its dowels.

Screw the cylinder head nuts onto their studs and tighten them all by hand. The cylinder head nuts are tightened in three stages. This is to ensure that the cylinder head gasket seals correctly to the cylinder head and barrels. A Tighten the cylinder head nuts, in the sequence shown, to 20 Nm.

B Tighten the cylinder head nuts, in the sequence shown, to torque 30 Nm. Cylinder head nut tightening sequence 7. Fit the engine front upper mounting bolt and nut and tighten to 80 Nm. Refit the cylinder head to frame mounting brackets and fit the bolts and nuts. Tighten the bracket to cylinder head bolt to 80 Nm and the bracket to frame bolt to 22 Nm. Fit the cam chain guide blade to the front of the cylinder head and tighten its retaining bolts to 10 Nm.

Guide blade Fit the cam chain tensioner blade to the rear of the cylinder head. Fit the washer and nut to the blade and tighten to 10 Nm. Position a new sealing washer on each side of the oil cooler feed pipe end fittings then secure the pipes to the cylinder head with the banjo bolts. Tighten the bolts to 30 Nm. Position a new sealing washer on each side of the oil feed pipe end fitting then screw in the low oil pressure warning light switch. Tighten the switch to 13 Nm then securely reconnectthe wiring connector and seat the rubber boot over the switch.

Lubricate the tappet buckets with clean engine oil then fit the bucket and shim assemblies to the cylinder head. Interchanging of the buckets and shims will upset the valve clearances. Refit the camshaft drive gear, the cam chain tensioner and the camshafts. Fit the spark plugs and tighten to 20 Nm. Remove the cylinder head. Each valve can then be removed as follows. Using a valve spring compressor, compress the spring retainer sufficiently until the collets can be removed.

Valve spring compressor 3. With the collets removed, carefully release the spring compressor. Collet on the end of a magnet 3. Lift off the spring retainer, valve spring and spring seat. Slide the valve out of its guide. If necessary, deburr the valve before removal. Valve 6. Remove the valve stem seal from the guide. Remove any carbon build-up from the face of the valve and closely inspect the valve head and seat face. If any sign of cracking or pitting is found renew the valve.

Measure the valve stem diameter at several points along its length. If the stem diameter is outside the specified limits, renew the valve. Valve stem diameter Inlet Standard 5. Measure the valve guide bore diameter at several points along its length. If the guide bore diameter is outside the specified limits, the cylinder head must be renewed.

Valve guide bore diameter Standard 5. Calculate the valve stem to guide clearance. If the clearance exceeds the specified limits, the cylinder head will have to be renewed. Valve stem to guide clearance Inlet Standard 0. Measure the valve seat width in the cylinder head at several points.

If the seat width is outside the specified limits, the valve seat will have to be repaired if possible or the cylinder head will have to be renewed. Valve seat width in head Standard 0.

Measure the free length of each valve spring. If the spring length is outside the specified limits it must be renewed. Valve spring free length Standard Valve stem seal 2. Spring seat 3. Spring 4. Spring retainer 5. Collets 6. Valve 1. Locate the new valve stem seal on the end of the valve guide.

Press the seal fully onto the guide, taking care not to damage its sealing lip or ring. Do not use excessive force in fitting the seal as this may break the seal ring. Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulphide grease to the valve stem. Fit the spring seat. Spring seat 5. Fit the valve spring then fit the spring retainer to the top of the spring.

Spring retainer 6. Using the spring compressor, compress the spring retainer sufficiently to expose the collet groove. Install the collets, ensuring they are correctly located in the collet groove, then carefully release the spring compressor.

If not, they could become dislodged when the engine is running resulting in serious engine damage. Clean the area around the barrel base gasket joint to prevent dirt falling into the crankcase when the barrels are removed. Lift off the barrels, taking care not to lose the locating dowels. Locating dowels 5. Remove the base gasket and discard it. Measure the diameter of each cylinder bore using an internal micrometer or similar accurate measuring equipment. Fit a new base gasket ensuring that the locating dowels are correctly in position.

Locating dowels 3. While supporting the pistons to prevent contact with the crankcase, position the pistons level with each other. Ensure the piston ring end gaps are correctly positioned see pistons and rings installation. Ensure the barrels are completely clean. Lubricate the piston rings and the cylinder bores with clean engine oil. Carefully lower the barrels onto the pistons, passing the cam chain up through the barrels.

Failure to support the barrels is likely to result in piston ring breakage. Ease the barrels carefully down over the pistons whilst guiding the piston rings into the base of the cylinder bores. The base of each bore is chamfered to ease installation and excess force should not be needed. If either piston jams, lift the barrels slightly and check the rings are correctly located in their grooves before continuing. The use of force is likely to result in piston ring breakage.

Slide the barrels fully down and locate on the dowels. Alternator 'L' Line America shown 2. Crankcase Joint Refit the cylinder head. Remove the barrels. Position each piston at TOG.

Each piston can be removed as follows. Remove the gudgeon pin circlip from the outside of the piston. Discard the circlip. Circlip 4. Push the gudgeon pin out from the inside of the piston and withdraw the piston from the connecting rod.

Remove the remaining circlip from the piston and discard it. Prior to removing the rings, check the ring-to-groove clearance of each compression ring see inspection. Ease the top compression ring out of its groove and remove it from the top of the piston.

The rings are brittle and will break if expanded too much. Remove the second compression ring in the same way. Remove the oil control rings and expander. Remove any carbon build-up from the piston crown. Inspect the piston crown for signs of pitting and check the piston skirt and ring grooves for signs of wear or scuffing. If any sign of damage is found, renew the piston. Measure the piston outside diameter 13 mm up from the bottom of the skirt. Measure at from the axis of the gudgeon pin.

Piston outside diameter 2. Measurement point 13 mm up the piston skirt 3. Gudgeon pin bore Piston outside diameter - cc engines Standard Check each piston ring end gap as follows. Ease the piston ring into the top of the cylinder bore. Using the piston crown, push the piston ring down into the bore the piston will keep the piston ring square until the third groove of the piston is level with the top of the bore. Remove the piston and measure the gap between the ends of the piston ring, using a feeler gauge.

Checking piston ring 1 end gap Piston ring end gap - cc engines Top ring end gap I Standard Do not file the ring grooves! I Standard Do not file piston rings! With the piston rings correctly installed on the piston, check the ring-to-groove clearance of each compression ring, using a feeler gauge. Ensure the piston ring grooves are clean. Triumph Speed Triple Service Manual. Triumph Thunderbird Owner's Manual. Triumph Tiger Explorer Owner's Manual. Triumph Tiger Owner's Manual.

Triumph Tiger Sport Owner's Manual. Motorcycles Triumph is the oldest and at the same time the youngest motor brand in Great Britain, founded in and resumed its activity again in Triumph motorcycles produced: classic, cruisers, roadsters, touristic, touristic enduro, sports and retro models. The history of Triumph dates back to the late nineteenth century. Two British entrepreneurs of German descent, Bettmann and Schulte, opened the production of bicycles under the Triumph brand back in A small British town became the birthplace of this company.

Designers from around the world in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries tried to install a motor on a bicycle.